We started the month of December 1987 somewhere in the Straits of Florida one and a half hours out of Miami and heading
for West End, Grand Bahama. Light winds out of the west-northwest and full working sail. By eight thirty in the morning we
had spotted the water tower at West End but the wind was veering and heading us so we started the motor, entering the
marina at eight thirty.
Bahamas Customs and Immigration have established an office at the marina, but as they split their time between here and the
airport they still charge five bucks apiece for "travel". There is also a new charge of ten dollars for a fishing licence if you
intend to troll a line or go spear fishing. This is part of a whole series of fishing regulations that have been introduced to aid
conservation and that are being strictly enforced. Pamphlets are available from customs.
Once clear of officials (none of whom came near
Oborea) we spent the next two and a half days crossing
the Little Bahama Bank under overcast skies and
mainly light winds with stops at Mangrove and Little
Sale cays to Allens-Pensacola cay where we rode out a
weak "Norther". From here we went on to Green Turtle
cay (arriving two months to the day after we left
Toronto), Great Guana cay and finally Marsh Harbour.
At Marsh Harbour we booked a flight back to Canada
in nine days time and then spent a week doing a quick
tour of the Hub of Abaco. We sailed first to Little
Harbour where we renewed acquaintances with old
friends. Pete's Pub which burnt down about a year ago
has not yet been rebuilt, but there are plans. There is
also a road into Little Harbour now (actually we would
consider it more of a logging trail) so it is no longer as
isolated as it was. I am not sure that this is a good idea.
We did a bit of fishing in the Bight of Old Robinson and then sailed to Hope Town on Elbow Cay where we made
arrangements with Truman Majors to look after Oborea. From here we completed our circuit through Man O'War and Marsh
Harbour and then back to Hope Town where we picked up our mooring below the candy striped lighthouse on the fifteenth of
December and prepared Oborea for her three months rest. We had travelled 2,300 miles from Toronto in seventy one days...
* * * * * * * * * * *
March 8th 1988
Arrived back in Hope Town, after riding three aircraft and a ferry from Toronto, to find Oborea afloat and in good order. The
sides of the hull below the waterline were as clean as the day she went in last May (KL990) but where the antifouling was
worn off, around the bows and bottom edges of the hulls and the leading edges of the skegs, there was a two inch growth of
weed. Cleared out all the deck gear I had stowed in the cabin and went to bed.
March 9th 1988
Bent on sails and had a brisk sail to Marsh Harbour (although the log read only two knots, there must be weed on the
transducer). In Marsh Harbour I saw Four Winds the Horstman tri from Rochester, and Walt and Dottie aboard Illusion,
friends of Margaret and Sian.
March 14th 1988
At anchor waiting for a guest to arrive. I did an inventory of supplies, stocked up at the local supermarkets, collected eight
gallons of rainwater in a "Norther" and generally kept busy.
March 16th 1988
My crew arrived from Toronto, but so did another "Norther" so it was not until today that we were able to sail the eighteen
miles to Little Harbour where we went over the side and cleaned the weed off the bottom.
March 17th 1988
Winds from the north east at ten knots as we head south across the North East Providence Channel sixty miles to Royal
Island. The wind gradually shifted to the east and became light so we had a slow passage of about twelve hours. Saw five large
freighters and a cruise ship in the channel.
March 19th 1988
At anchor at Royal Island waiting for favourable winds to continue south. Near us in the anchorage is the Finnclipper
Jacaranda of Kingston, Ontario. This boat lives next door to the Moizer property in the Thousand Islands where we
frequently hold the Wharram Sail-In. Small world!
March 20th 1988
Sailed fifty miles due south across the shallow swimming pool coloured water to Allens Cay in the northern Exumas. Ike did
some fishing along the way and had something that looked like a shark make off with his best lure.
March 21st 1988
Spent the morning visiting the iguanas on Allens Cay and swimming over the reef before heading another fifteen miles south
to Normans Cay.
March 22nd 1988
Sunny and warm with strong east-northeast winds. Heading south at eight to ten knots under full mainsail and small jib. Left
a Gemini catamaran standing! Opposite Big Opening we had to slow down to five or six knots because the short steep seas
coming through the gaps in the reef were making things just too wet and uncomfortable.
A mile short of Staniel Cay we passed Cirrus II at anchor and I talked to the crew on the radio. They had spent most of the
winter in the Florida Keys and were now heading south, like us but at a more leisurely pace, down the Exumas to George
Town. Stopped in three and a half feet of water at Staniel Cay and walked out the anchor on foot.
March 24th 1988
Spent the next day at Staniel because of stiff winds out of the east, but as they continued today we decided to leave anyway.
Under reefed mainsail we went to windward at eight knots in the lee of Great Guana Cay to Little Farmers Cay where we
anchored next to a monohull that had recently spent time with Milliwaves in George Town.
Next day the wind continued strong, and as our course would carry us across more open water we decided to stay put.
March 27th 1988
Winds down to twenty knots so we set off south again and
did a lot of tacking to end up at Childrens Bay Cay for the
night.
Next day the wind was down to ten knots and had backed to
the east-northeast so we had a very pleasant sail of forty
miles to George Town over the deep royal blue waters of
Exuma Sound.
Two miles out of George Town we heard our friends David
and Neila of Windchime talking to other friends Rick and
Kathy of Freedom on the radio so we joined in and were
able to anchor near them at Stocking Island. We had last
seen Windchime in November and Freedom in December.
This is one of the real joys of cruising, encountering old
friends.
In the next cove we discovered another old friend,
Milliwaves. Nicholas is now a nudist and Sandy has a large
group of friends her own age to run around with so
everyone is happy.
Chapter 2 — In The Bahamas