came from ahead, and then we stood away on the starboard tack, as
was the practice of the fruit schooners and brigs trading between the
Azores and Channel ports when confronted by a headwind, for the
farther north one goes the greater should be the chance of picking up a
westerly wind. At times we were 60 miles to the north-west of the
great-circle course, which optimistically I had drawn on the chart; but
this did not benefit us, because, as we were to learn a little later, an
anticyclone lay between us and the Channel.
However, after we had been at sea for a week, during which we had
sailed less than 500 miles, there were solar and lunar halos, and the
barograph, which had been high and steady, began to fall; it dropped
steadily one inch in four days, remained there for 12 hours, and then
started to fall some more. Clearly something unpleasant was on its
way, and gale warnings, which we could now get from the B.B.C. Radio
2, were broadcast for many areas, including Sole, which we were now
approaching. The sky was low and heavy, the atmosphere was damp,
and an ominous swell rolled in from the north-west.
At noon of the eleventh day, when we still had about 300 miles to go to
Mizen Head at the south-west corner of Ireland, the wind at north was
so fresh that we hove-to to cook and eat lunch in some degree of
comfort; but as the wind continued to increase and the sea grew
rougher, we remained hove-to, and several times during the afternoon
I went on deck and rolled down more and more of the already deeply
reefed mainsail, until by evening only about 75 of its 300 square feet
remained set. But at dusk even that small area of sail was too much in
a sudden violent screaming rain-laden squall. We dragged on our
oilskin suits and went on deck to stow it with some difficulty, Susan
working on the windward side of the boom and I to lee- ward. As soon
as the halyard was let go the wet sail beat at our hands and faces, the
terylene rattling like machine-gun fire; even to pass tiers round it was
difficult, and close though we were to one another I could not hear a
word of what Susan was shouting at me. Then with a springy piece of
nylon rope we lashed the tiller down, and the ship lay beam on to wind
and sea, heeled 15 degrees under her bare mast, and drifting very
slowly to leeward. I had taken Blondie's bonnet off some time before,
and now we unlaced the weathercloths each side of the cockpit, for if
we were to ship heavy water these would probably carry away the
stanchions to which they were secured, as they had twice done in the
past. Our final act, and no easy one, was to light the riding light and
lash it to the boom gallows, where the wind almost immediately it blew
out. So throughout the night we had to rely on our feeble electric bow
and stern lights; but I doubt that mattered as much as we thought at
the time, for heavy rain so reduced visibility that even a bright light
could scarcely have been sighted at a sufficient distance to prevent a
collision. We wondered, as we thankfully went below, slammed the hatch,
and shed our streaming oilskins, how effective a radar reflector really is,
especially one carried as ours was only 12 feet above the sea.
Susan managed to heat up the evening soup, and then we lay wedged in
our bunks, listening uneasily to the noises of the storm: the whine of wind
in the rigging, rising to a shriller note each time we lifted to the top of a
sea; the sharp rattle of spray on deck; the angry vibration of the vane on
its shaft; the rushing sound of an approaching crest and the shuddering
crash as it broke against the weather side. As the night wore on the sea
naturally grew rougher, and we shipped heavier crests more frequently. A
particularly violent one came thundering aboard at about 0300, and
immediately a cascade of water poured down into the galley through the
two after ventilators and through the sliding hatch, which the motion had
caused to open slightly. At the same time a dollop came in through the
water-trap vent over the foot of Susan's bunk and – because of the motion
or the angle of the ship at the time – fell on her pillow and head. For a few
moments until the ship was able to rid her deck of the burden, she felt
buried, heavy and lifeless, and afterwards water sloshed in the slowly
draining cockpit well for a long time; eighty strokes of the pump were
needed to free the bilge of the water that had entered by way of the
cockpit seats, and I had to dress up and go on deck to attend to that job.
Nicholson chose the not very suitable time while we were busy mopping
up, to take his daily exercise in wild dashes up and down the cabin, with
his long thin tail so kinked that its tip almost touched the top of his black
head; he then demanded food before turning in on the drier end of
Susan's bunk. This, indeed, was a real old night of horror such as we had
not experienced for a long time, certainly not on this cruise, and I wished
I possessed the tension-free mind of a cat with a full stomach, and could
just sleep until it was over. Because of the northing we had made nights
were now much shorter, but it did seem a long, long time before the first
grey hint of dawn outlined the portholes; we noticed with relief then that
the glass was beginning to rise.
We remained lying a-hull for a total of 24 hours. Then the wind backed to
the west and moderated, so we unrolled and set some of the mainsail and
got moving on our course, and from that time on we had uneventful
sailing, though often in mist or rain. But during the forenoon of the day
we expected to make our landfall the sun shone brightly and the horizon
was clear, enabling us to fix our position with certainty; with a fine west
wind to hurry us gaily along, we could not have had better conditions for
raising the land, and we sighted Mizen Head in the early afternoon.
Wanderer III